Tide Pools, Ste. Flavie

Tide Pools, Ste. Flavie

Oil on canvas, 16x20,

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Here in the Gaspe Peninsula - Le Gaspesie, as it's called - the sun rises at one end of the St. Lawrence and sets at the other. And the dawns and dusks (4 a.m. and about 9:30 p.m.) have been spectacular, red and rose-colored and gold and blue, fading into a pearly silver over the water.

We spent the first few days on the northern edge of the Gaspe, rambling around the little seacoast towns. Each has a church, it seems, and no matter how dinky the town, the church is enormous - and clean and shiny and expensive-looking.

The concept of seaside property being exorbitantly expensive has not seemed to hit the Gaspe. Time and again, we saw seaside farms, seaside municipal storage areas, seaside rest stops, seaside cow and horse corrals. And empty lots. Empty land, too, and empty, beautiful beaches.

As we drove east, the coast became rougher and tougher, and mountains appeared, tumbling straight down to the